October 12, 2011
“The shops have rather nice things, I see, though pretty expensive. Would you like a pair of gloves––sealskin with the fur on the back––but what size shall I buy? Draw round your hand on the writing paper. I saw a splendid narwhal horn yesterday, delicately spiraled and about six-foot high as far as I remember. Perhaps if I go to Greenland it may be possible to find one. It is a beautiful thing, heavy of course and quite useless. No plane would take it I’m afraid.”
- Eric Ravilious, from Eric Ravilious: Memoir of an Artist by Helen Binyon (2007).

“The shops have rather nice things, I see, though pretty expensive. Would you like a pair of gloves––sealskin with the fur on the back––but what size shall I buy? Draw round your hand on the writing paper. I saw a splendid narwhal horn yesterday, delicately spiraled and about six-foot high as far as I remember. Perhaps if I go to Greenland it may be possible to find one. It is a beautiful thing, heavy of course and quite useless. No plane would take it I’m afraid.”

- Eric Ravilious, from Eric Ravilious: Memoir of an Artist by Helen Binyon (2007).

October 7, 2011
“Instead of a trip-wire fence or preferably as a supplement to the fence you may want to set up one or more baited alarms at the periphery of your camp - about 50 m away from the tents. The Chili con Carne Alarm is constructed of cheap and simple materials and should be reliable. The bait is on open can of chili con carne (or similar food with a very potent smell) put on the top platform holding down a switch de-activating an alarm. When an approaching polar bear is lured to the can by the strong odor of chili it will eventually turn over the can to investigate the contents; the alarm is then activated (e.g. a 110 dB loud siren), scrambling people in the tents soon enough to start deterring the bear or take other appropriate steps of protection. This alarm is used in the field by personnel of the Greenland Geological Survey when operating in Northeast Greenland and can be recommended as an inexpensive but reliable polar bear detection device.
Technical specifications for the Chili con Carne Alarm:
1 80 cm long 2x2 cm metal rod4 30 cm long 2x2 cm metal rods1 connecting part # 25501 connecting part # 25154 end parts # 2510(all above parts refer to the Danish Termotex Corner System)1 waterproof alarm #B/SE041 micro-switch # 1005-10041 cable plug # 43 R041311(0)1 cable socket # 43 R011311(0)2 flat contact shoes (6.3mm long x 0.8mm wide)1 crown muff2 electrical cords (each c.1m long)2 6 Volt batteries (inside waterproof plastic bag)”
-Henning Thing, Greenland Home Rule Government Department of Environment and Wildlife Management, Encounters with Wildlife in Greenland, 1990.

“Instead of a trip-wire fence or preferably as a supplement to the fence you may want to set up one or more baited alarms at the periphery of your camp - about 50 m away from the tents. The Chili con Carne Alarm is constructed of cheap and simple materials and should be reliable. The bait is on open can of chili con carne (or similar food with a very potent smell) put on the top platform holding down a switch de-activating an alarm. When an approaching polar bear is lured to the can by the strong odor of chili it will eventually turn over the can to investigate the contents; the alarm is then activated (e.g. a 110 dB loud siren), scrambling people in the tents soon enough to start deterring the bear or take other appropriate steps of protection. This alarm is used in the field by personnel of the Greenland Geological Survey when operating in Northeast Greenland and can be recommended as an inexpensive but reliable polar bear detection device.

Technical specifications for the Chili con Carne Alarm:

1 80 cm long 2x2 cm metal rod
4 30 cm long 2x2 cm metal rods
1 connecting part # 2550
1 connecting part # 2515
4 end parts # 2510
(all above parts refer to the Danish Termotex Corner System)
1 waterproof alarm #B/SE04
1 micro-switch # 1005-1004
1 cable plug # 43 R041311(0)
1 cable socket # 43 R011311(0)
2 flat contact shoes (6.3mm long x 0.8mm wide)
1 crown muff
2 electrical cords (each c.1m long)
2 6 Volt batteries (inside waterproof plastic bag)”


-Henning Thing, Greenland Home Rule Government Department of Environment and Wildlife Management, Encounters with Wildlife in Greenland, 1990.

June 25, 2011
“We had three sorts of sick men: those that could not move, nor turn themselves in their beds, who must be tended like infants; others were, as it were, crippled with aches; and others, that were something better. Most had sore mouths. You may now ask me, how these infirm men could work? I will tell you. Our surgeon, who was a diligent and sweet-conditioned man as ever I saw, would be up betimes in the morning, and whilst he picked their teeth, and cut away the pieces of flesh from their gums, they would bathe their thighs, knees, and legs. The manner of it was thus: there was no tree, bud, or herb, but we made trial of it; and this being first boiled in a kettle, and then put in a small tub and basins, they put it under them, and covered them with cloths upon it. This so mollified the grieved parts, that though, when they rose out of their beds, they would be so crippled that they could scarce stand, yet, after this was done half an hour, they would be able to go (and go they must) to wade through the snow to the ship, and about other business. By night they would be as bad again, and then they must be bathed, anointed, and their mouths dressed again, before they went to bed: and in this diet, and in this manner, we went through our miseries.  I was always afraid that we should be weakest in the spring, and therefore I reserved a tun of Alicant wine unto this time.  Of this, by putting seven parts of water to one of wine, we made some weak beverage; which, by reason that the wine had been froze, and lost its virtue, was little better than water.  The sicker sort had a pint of Alicant a day, by itself; and of such poor aqua vita, too, as we had, they had a dram allowed them next their hearts every morning. And thus we made the best use of what we had, according to the seasons.”- Captain Thomas James, The Strange and Dangerous Voyage of Captain Thomas James, Ed. by W.A. Kenyon, 1975.
James’s account is from his 1631 voyage in search of the Northwest Passage, in which he and his crew overwintered on Charlton Island in James Bay, in what is now Nunavut, Canada.

“We had three sorts of sick men: those that could not move, nor turn themselves in their beds, who must be tended like infants; others were, as it were, crippled with aches; and others, that were something better. Most had sore mouths. You may now ask me, how these infirm men could work? I will tell you. Our surgeon, who was a diligent and sweet-conditioned man as ever I saw, would be up betimes in the morning, and whilst he picked their teeth, and cut away the pieces of flesh from their gums, they would bathe their thighs, knees, and legs. The manner of it was thus: there was no tree, bud, or herb, but we made trial of it; and this being first boiled in a kettle, and then put in a small tub and basins, they put it under them, and covered them with cloths upon it. This so mollified the grieved parts, that though, when they rose out of their beds, they would be so crippled that they could scarce stand, yet, after this was done half an hour, they would be able to go (and go they must) to wade through the snow to the ship, and about other business. By night they would be as bad again, and then they must be bathed, anointed, and their mouths dressed again, before they went to bed: and in this diet, and in this manner, we went through our miseries. 

I was always afraid that we should be weakest in the spring, and therefore I reserved a tun of Alicant wine unto this time.  Of this, by putting seven parts of water to one of wine, we made some weak beverage; which, by reason that the wine had been froze, and lost its virtue, was little better than water.  The sicker sort had a pint of Alicant a day, by itself; and of such poor aqua vita, too, as we had, they had a dram allowed them next their hearts every morning. And thus we made the best use of what we had, according to the seasons.”

- Captain Thomas James, The Strange and Dangerous Voyage of Captain Thomas James, Ed. by W.A. Kenyon, 1975.

James’s account is from his 1631 voyage in search of the Northwest Passage, in which he and his crew overwintered on Charlton Island in James Bay, in what is now Nunavut, Canada.

April 10, 2011
Saturday May 11th, 1811
North
Fresh gales cloudy. Ice particles constantly floating in the air. Frost severe Thermometer 9º did not rise to 12 for 24 hours removed the bread from the After hold into the Lockers and shaked the Casks.
Several lanes of water broke out some near us most of them closed again –– Four fresh Ships appeared to the SE suppose if it were clear should be able to see at least 33 or 34 sail. It is very likely no Ships are to the North of this Ice. 20 of the Ships in sight are like us closely beset amongst mixed Ice. A vast quantity of birds have been seen to Day.
About 4 PM our Surgeon either induced by the love of gain of a 5/bet or the fear of being called a coward stripped off the most of his clothes and committed his body to the water alongside the Aimwell swam a few yards and returned amidst the acclamations of the sailors who pronounced him mad.
- William Scoresby, The Arctic Whaling Journals of William Scoresby the Younger Vol. 1: The Voyages of 1811, 1812, and 1813.

Saturday May 11th, 1811

North

Fresh gales cloudy. Ice particles constantly floating in the air. Frost severe Thermometer 9º did not rise to 12 for 24 hours removed the bread from the After hold into the Lockers and shaked the Casks.

Several lanes of water broke out some near us most of them closed again –– Four fresh Ships appeared to the SE suppose if it were clear should be able to see at least 33 or 34 sail. It is very likely no Ships are to the North of this Ice. 20 of the Ships in sight are like us closely beset amongst mixed Ice. A vast quantity of birds have been seen to Day.

About 4 PM our Surgeon either induced by the love of gain of a 5/bet or the fear of being called a coward stripped off the most of his clothes and committed his body to the water alongside the Aimwell swam a few yards and returned amidst the acclamations of the sailors who pronounced him mad.

- William Scoresby, The Arctic Whaling Journals of William Scoresby the Younger Vol. 1: The Voyages of 1811, 1812, and 1813.

January 30, 2011
“The surroundings were carefully examined for graves, as during the occupancy, covering at least two years, of habitations of such size it was likely some one must have died. No traces of any human remains could be found, nor, indeed, of the dogs; but, in the case of the latter, their uncared for remains would have been devoured and their bones removed by foxes or wolves. It is pertinent to remark that musk-ox or other expected bones were rarely found in Grinnell Land.
Nearly an hour was spent in the examination of these remains, after which we started westward. […] During this day’s march I found a large reindeer’s antler, and Corporal Salor saw a bumble-bee and a “devil’s darning-needle.” Butterflies were very numerous, as many as fifty being seen during the day.”
- Observations made in the Lake Hazen region of Ellesmere Island by Adolphus Washington Greely, as recorded in Three Years of Arctic Service: An Account of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition of 1881-84. 

“The surroundings were carefully examined for graves, as during the occupancy, covering at least two years, of habitations of such size it was likely some one must have died. No traces of any human remains could be found, nor, indeed, of the dogs; but, in the case of the latter, their uncared for remains would have been devoured and their bones removed by foxes or wolves. It is pertinent to remark that musk-ox or other expected bones were rarely found in Grinnell Land.

Nearly an hour was spent in the examination of these remains, after which we started westward. […] During this day’s march I found a large reindeer’s antler, and Corporal Salor saw a bumble-bee and a “devil’s darning-needle.” Butterflies were very numerous, as many as fifty being seen during the day.”

- Observations made in the Lake Hazen region of Ellesmere Island by Adolphus Washington Greely, as recorded in Three Years of Arctic Service: An Account of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition of 1881-84

November 7, 2010
HammerfestFor over forty years I’d paid it atlas homage,    The northernmost township on earth, producingThe best deep-frozen fish-sticks you can buy; for three days,    I pottered round, a monolingual pilgrim,And drank the beer of the world’s most northern brewery.    Though miles beyond the Moral Circle, I sawNo orgies, no great worms, nor dreamed of any during    Three sunny nights: louts, though––German this time––Had left their usual mark. How much reverence could I,    Can anyone past fifty, afford to lose?Was it as worldly as it looked? I might have thought so    But for my ears: something odd was happeningSound-wise. A word, a laugh, a footstep, a truck’s outcry,    Each utterance rang singular, staccato,To be cut off before it could be contradicted    Or confused by others: a listening terrainSeized on them all and never gave one back in echo,    As if to land as desolate, as far up,Whatever noise our species cared to make still mattered.    Here was a place we had yet to disappoint.The only communities it had to judge us by    Were cenobite, mosses and lichen, sworn toStation and reticence: its rocks knew almost nothing,    Nothing about the glum Reptilian EmpireOr the epic journey of the Horse, had heard no tales    Of that pre-glacial Actium when the hugeArchaic shrubs went down before the scented flowers,    And earth was won for color. For all it knew,Religion had begun with the Salvation Army,    Warfare with motorized resentful conscripts.Ground so bare might take a century to realise    How we behave to regions or to beingsWho have anything we’re after: to have disgusted    Millions of acres of good-natured topsoilIs an achievement of a sort, to fail to notice    How garden plants and farmyard beasts look at us,Or refuse to look, to picture all of them as dear    Faithful old retainers, another, but whyBring that up now? My intrusion had not profaned it:    If innocence is holy, it was holy.                W. H. Auden, May 1961

Hammerfest

For over forty years I’d paid it atlas homage,
    The northernmost township on earth, producing
The best deep-frozen fish-sticks you can buy; for three days,
    I pottered round, a monolingual pilgrim,
And drank the beer of the world’s most northern brewery.
    Though miles beyond the Moral Circle, I saw
No orgies, no great worms, nor dreamed of any during
    Three sunny nights: louts, though––German this time––
Had left their usual mark. How much reverence could I,
    Can anyone past fifty, afford to lose?

Was it as worldly as it looked? I might have thought so
    But for my ears: something odd was happening
Sound-wise. A word, a laugh, a footstep, a truck’s outcry,
    Each utterance rang singular, staccato,
To be cut off before it could be contradicted
    Or confused by others: a listening terrain
Seized on them all and never gave one back in echo,
    As if to land as desolate, as far up,
Whatever noise our species cared to make still mattered.
    Here was a place we had yet to disappoint.

The only communities it had to judge us by
    Were cenobite, mosses and lichen, sworn to
Station and reticence: its rocks knew almost nothing,
    Nothing about the glum Reptilian Empire
Or the epic journey of the Horse, had heard no tales
    Of that pre-glacial Actium when the huge
Archaic shrubs went down before the scented flowers,
    And earth was won for color. For all it knew,
Religion had begun with the Salvation Army,
    Warfare with motorized resentful conscripts.

Ground so bare might take a century to realise
    How we behave to regions or to beings
Who have anything we’re after: to have disgusted
    Millions of acres of good-natured topsoil
Is an achievement of a sort, to fail to notice
    How garden plants and farmyard beasts look at us,
Or refuse to look, to picture all of them as dear
    Faithful old retainers, another, but why
Bring that up now? My intrusion had not profaned it:
    If innocence is holy, it was holy.

                W. H. Auden, May 1961